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Scribbled From Atop A RUNNIN' HORSE HOW TO SELECT AN OLD WEST OUTFIT At the last Board of Governors meeting this past December, I was asked to write something regarding how to select authentic Old West outfits. This was to be printed in the CMSA Rundown, as well as getting posted on the CMSA website. After giving the subject much thought, and finally getting a break in my traveling and writing schedule, I pen the following, with the thought that it should serve as a general guide for anyone who wants to assemble a proper Western getup for Cowboy Mounted Shooting competitions. I've decided that rather than go into the details of each article of clothing, such as hats, shirts, boots, gunleather, and so on, I will offer a brief overview of the general type of clothing worn--but more importantly, I will offer some valuable tips on finding sources, for both research (the key to putting together any great looking outfit (of any type or era) and for consideration for making purchases. After all, volumes could be (and have been written) on this subject, so rather than getting into a "career" of guiding CMSA riders through each individual item of garb, I will give you the tools which should enable each CMSA member to have a better understanding of the clothing of the frontier period, along with ideas on where to find more detailed information, original photographs and carefully researched illustrations (by authoritative artists), as well as who to deal with. First, bear in mind that CMSA rules and guidelines do not state that everything worn must be strictly pre-1900, or totally authentic. We are not creating a documentary film, a scholarly museum-type of exhibition, by attempting to recreate, in the utmost detail, the total look of the late 19th century cowboy (for you politically correct types, in this article, the term "cowboy" includes cowgirls, cavalrymen, gambling gents, scouts, and other frontier folk that we attempt to emulate), rather we are trying to capture the spirit and the essence of the image of the old-time, Westerner. In this way, we pay homage to the classic American West, and our pioneer forefathers, yet still have fun (since that is what our sport is all about. Sure, there will always be those folks who want nothing less than total authenticity, and they work very hard to create that look for themselves. That's fine, and I personally applaud each. However, if that's not your bag, so to say, then use the information and sources cited here for your research in capturing the flavor of the Wild West. The CMSA has a number of riders (probably most of them) who, while not necessarily totally authentic to a certain time period (for example, 1880) in their competitive duds, they do nevertheless, project a colorful and proper image of the classic Westerner.....and by doing so, they leave no doubt that they are part of the cowboy and Western world. That's what the CMSA is trying to accomplish with our period dress code! This effort to "capture the spirit of the Wild West" outlook, toward our competitive clothing, is why the CMSA allows blue jeans to be worn -if covered by chaps- since there's no mistaking a pair of chaps as being Western! A word of caution though, you may not want to get too comfortable in those blue jeans. While the ruling currently allows anyone to wear them (so long as they are underneath a set of chaps), this is a controversial and touchy subject with many CMSA members, and it could be overturned or modified (as many CMSA members want) in the future, to allow blue jeans--ONLY FOR FIRST YEAR MEMBERS--in order to help them get started, or while they are deciding whether they want to stick with the sport, before they make any sizeable investments in the more authentic old-timey clothing styles. In the meantime, enjoy them if you wish. Now, down to the business of determining what is authentic when it comes to Old West clothing. As mentioned above, volumes have been written on the subject, nonetheless, as a guideline for those interested in getting a good Western look, here are a few points about the haberdashery of the past that may be helpful to you. Clothing of the mid-to-late 19th century, and for the first few decades of the 20th century, were made strictly of natural fibers. The age of synthetics, such as nylon, and other chemically produced fabrics, did not dawn until around the 1930s -and polyesters are strictly modern! So, even if certain articles of clothing have synthetic content, or is made of a cotton-polyester blend for example, it should have the look (the way it drapes, and appears in the bright sunlight) of the natural cloths, like cotton, wool, linen, silk, etc. Polyester fabrics have a tendency to give a "shiny," a slight glisten, or "sparkle," if you will, to a material it is used in, and further, synthetic materials don't hang loosely like natural fibers, rather they fluff and stand up a bit more than the real stuff, so if you really want to capture that authentic look, stay away from synthetics. Hold some synthetic material up to the light and you'll see what I mean. Also, try to knot a polyester scarf tie or wild rag. The ends stick right out there, don't they. Knot a silk neckerchief or tie, and it hangs and drapes nicely. Additionally, I find that I tend to perspire more in synthetics, so I purchase and wear fabrics of natural fibers whenever possible -especially in warm weather! Clothing of the Old West was generally loose fitting, but not the baggy look as in some trendy modern suits. Fitting in clothing was achieved either through a natural fit, or by a tailor. Tight fitting clothing was sometimes worn due to shrinkage during the laundering of woolens and other fabrics that would shrink (there was no such thing as "dry cleaning" in those days. Trousers were of the looser, straight-legged style, and were worn long, sometimes with a slight flare at the very bottom. These were known as "Spring Bottom" trousers, and sprung out only a few inches above the cuff, rather than just below the knee -as is the case with bellbottoms. Pants legs were not creased until that practice became fashionable sometime around the mid-1880s. Before that, creases on trouser legs were taken as a sign that one was wearing "store-bought" pants, that had been folded and lying in a pile with other garments -the crease caused by the weight of the other pants stacked on top of the trousers in question. The belt and buckle a the rear of the trousers, like those found on so many reproduction garments offered today, was one way in which the fit around the waist could be adjusted. The fly front was fastened shut with buttons. Zippers did not make their appearance until the 1930s. Trousers had higher waists than today's pants, and were generally held up by a natural, snug fit, or via galluses (suspenders). Belts were sometimes used, but were not in common usage until shortly after 1900. Trousers were often worn tucked into the high-topped boots (because of muddy streets and/or because of being worn in brushy country where the fabric might snag and rip. If the pants leg was worn on the outside of one's boots, then they should be worn long, draping over the boot, much like the accordion look, popular with modern rodeo cowboys. Chaps were loose-legged affairs, and regardless of whether they were the straight-leg "shotgun" variety or the floppy "batwing" style, the early versions were "step ins," meaning that you didn't zipper or buckle them up, rather you put them on like a pair of pants. Men's shirts had full sleeves -not always big and blousy, but a full cut, as opposed to a tightly fitted sleeve. Shirt bodies were full cut, not tapered.. Snaps didn't exist until around the late 19-teens of the early twenties, and were a product of professional rodeo. Snap closures were designed to keep a cowboy from getting hung up on the saddle horn of a bucking bronc. Buttons were usually of bone, ocean pearl, molded hard rubber, or early thermal plastics.
As far as women are concerned, the "proper" lady rode sidesaddle up until sometime around the late 1880s, when a few daring women began the practice of riding astride like their male counterparts. However, without a doubt, rancher's wives, daughters, and other females that were horseback, out in remote areas, such as the open range, or other locales far away from civilization, wore male clothing for practical purposes -and rode with their legs straddling each side of the horse, "like the guys!" When women started riding astride in public, they adopted the loose-legged, split riding skirts, which could usually be buttoned up in the front in order to close the separate legs--thus giving the appearance of a full and proper skirt. Underneath the skirt, gals wore pantaloon-type undergarments (mostly of white cotton), stockings of a dark or colorful (stripes, or patterned) silk, cotton, or even wool, and high heeled shoes or boots -with or without spurs. Women also wore colorful blouses with a variety of loose, often puffy, sleeves. Necklines were often high, and closed around the throat, and sleeves were generally full length. Fitted vests, jackets and other outerwear sometimes completed the lady's wardrobe. There are far too many variations in the clothing of the 19th century -of either sex--to list them all here, but the above examples should serve as a general rule of thumb for attaining a period Old West look. By keeping these basic guidelines in mind, CMSA competitors wishing to assemble an old-time outfit can do further research on their own. Now, this doesn't mean that you have to spend hour after hour, reading boring books, rather check out any of the many Western historical volumes now offered in public libraries, as well as most popular bookstores, such as Barnes & Noble, B. Dalton, and others. There are a number of works that are offered in an attractive coffee table, pictorial format, with lots of period photographs and illustrations. Check them out. You can usually find books of this nature in the American Western History section of these establishments. Another fine source of information on costuming is through the various volumes on the artists of the Old West. Books depicting the works of painters like Charles M. Russell, Frederic Remington, Charles Schreyvogel, Olaf Weighorst, O.C. Seltzer, and W. R. Leigh, are a few of the artists whose paintings and illustrations can be used as reference. You can have fun looking at the photos and artwork, while learning about the multitudes of styles and fashion that existed in the late 1800s. Those people were much more versatile in their dress than you might imagine, yet there were certain rules that almost always applied, such as some of the ones I've cited earlier in this piece. There are a number of excellent volumes that offer information and graphics on frontier-era historical clothing. Hopefully, in the near future, I'll offer an extensive listing on the CMSA website, but for now, check out books such as,
If you are ready to purchase some duds right now, check out the various CMSA sponsors and advertisers. Each has a selection of garments and other gear that ranges from museum-type reproductions, to Old West inspired, but more stylistic, pieces. It's up to you to make the final decision as to which way you want to go with your outfits -totally authentic from head to toe, or stylized in the "spirit of the Wild West." Most importantly, keep it in an old-timey Western flavor, and have fun! Now, go dress the part.
Click Photos to enlarge them
Affectionately known as the "First Lady in Cowboy Mounted Shooting," Denise Darr, always dresses the part of the old-time cowgirl. Seen here returning her first gun after she's rounded a barrel, Darr's outfits range from custom-made clothing, like her hat and leather split riding skirt, to "store-bought" replica duds from CMSA sponsors, to attractive "thrift store" finds. Denise has a good eye for colorful outfits and does a great job at capturing the flavor of the Wild West! Photo by Linda Spangenberger
CMSA's Larry Brady, always competes in authentic and flavorful Old West outfits. Here, at one of the Winter Range shoots, this California cowboy has donned a "Montana pinch" hat, bib front shirt, galluses, and an original pair of circa 1890s wooly shotgun chaps, along with his square-toed boots, California-pattern spurs, wild rag, and Colt Peacemaker and frontier-era gunleather. Author's photo
California's Fernando Vasquez' attire is both traditional and quite impressive, despite it's being a modern-styled Mexican charro outfit. The sombrero, and trousers differ slightly in minor details, from those of the era of the Wild West, nonetheless this getup is every bit as classic Western as any Americano cowboy getup you'll ever see! Great looking outfits like this help promote the unique flavor of cowboy mounted shooting. Author's photo |
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As a rule, button-down collars are not appropriate. Collarless
shirts (made for affixing a false collar), known as "collar band"
shirts, were quite common in that period, as were the stand and fall-type
collars with either pointed or rounded ends. Shirts were generally worn buttoned
at the throat -as per the proper Victorian fashion of the day -often with a
necktie or scarf tie of some sort, knotted under the collar. Seldom would a
Victorian "gent" be seen with his shirt collar opened at the throat -much
less unbuttoned half-way down his chest as in modern times. Dark colors like
navy blue, black, or somber shades of wine and dark green were the favored
shades -even in warmer climes--as darker colors tended to hide the dirt better
than a white or light-colored garment. Vests were mostly made waist length (in
accordance with the old-time high waisted trousers -and they were often referred
to as "waistcoats") with straight-cut bottom edges -rather than the
pointed fronts found on many replica vests, and were made to be worn close
fitting, not hanging loosely like a modern sports coat. Some reproduction
clothing suppliers sell vests that are darned near long enough to be worn as a
skirt by the gals! If you want "authentic," avoid these long-cut
models. 
Boots were either square toed (1860s-1890s), or round toed
(late 1800s and early 1900s). Pointed toes came in in the early 20th century.
Period boots were loose fitting around the calf, so as to allow the tucking of
one's trouser into them, and high-topped (16-18 inches), with a variety of tops.
Stove-pipe tops and the crescent cut tops were very popular, as were the cavalry
or cavalier style -above the knee in front, sloping to below it in the rear.
Heels ranged from very flat to extremely high and narrow, depending on the
wear's occupation. Cowboys liked the tall, undercut heel, while miners, and
others who spent more time off of a horse, preferred a lower, more comfortable,
walking-style heel. Interestingly, the cavalryman's issue boots of the era
usually had low, flat heels as well, since they were primarily soldiers, rather
than strictly mounted men. 
Briefly to top off this discussion (literally) hats were
generally flat brimmed, with large rounded, or squared crowns. A multitude of
crown shapes existed, such as the so-called "Montana pinch," or those
"conk covers" that boasted of a single punched, or creased crown. One
of the most popular "lids" during the period of the Wild West was the
rounded "Boss of the Plains" crown, with the stiff, flat brim. Hats
with the rolled brims are more modern in design, roughly from the 1930s and
later. 
